Verdant dining unfurls

Words By Jamie Crocker A relaxed, Nordic-inspired dining space bringing refined, seasonal plates to rural Cornwall.

Chef Paul Welburn speaks with an unyielding yet humble, passion about what he does and the creations he brings to life. A Yorkshireman by birth, his unpretentious manner calls to mind some of that county’s other favourite sons – albeit without the peevish guile of an opening batsman or a football pundit’s gruffness. This passion for food was kindled as he grew up in Scarborough, where he delighted in seeing people’s reactions to his early, humble culinary creations. It was here that his journey began, being guided on his forward passage by the likes of Andrew Pern at the Star Inn at Harome and the spiky-haired and much-missed TV chef Gary Rhodes, before eventually ending up via a conjunction of personal necessity and opportunity in Cornwall. 

Tracking him down at Fern, Nanstallon, near Bodmin – a joint undertaking with Steve Oaks, the creator of the building that houses the restaurant itself – Paul was more than willing to enthuse about his new venture. 

What’s the core concept behind Fern – how do you want people to “feel” when they walk in?

Fern is designed to be an ever-evolving space with a cool, almost Nordic feel. Set on the edge of Nanstallon, beside the passing steam train and seated on Pendewey Farm, it offers a relaxed yet refined rural escape. The menu of small and larger plates shifts with the seasons, guided by what local suppliers have to offer and, quite simply, by what tastes best. Fern is a place to unwind and enjoy refined, not fine, dining – where dishes arrive when they’re ready, to share or savoured individually, and where you set the pace, stopping when you feel truly nourished.

How has your prior experience (Oxford Kitchen, Rhodes W1, Cygnet) shaped what you’re attempting at Fern?

I think all the places that I have worked in before have influenced my plans for Fern, but for me, moving to Cornwall for family reasons this time was a key factor. I was looking for a fresh, blank canvas where I could bring my food vision to life. Now, with Fern, the team and I are excited to create a fresh, cool venue, offering both drinks and food in an area of Cornwall that currently doesn’t have anything similar.

What dishes or ingredients are non-negotiable for Fern’s menu – what must always be present?

I think the only non-negotiable is that every dish has to be just damn tasty. Ingredients and techniques will evolve as new dishes are added and favourites return, but I don’t want the menu to feel fixed or constrained. I want first-time diners to enjoy whatever we create, while regulars can always discover something new – maybe not across the whole menu, but enough tweaks to keep things exciting. Camel Valley sparkling wine will always be on offer, given how close they are – hopefully, visitors to their vineyard might come down and try Fern too. That would be a wonderful partnership.

How did you settle on Nanstallon as the location – it’s not Oxfordshire, London or the Home Counties! It can feel quite isolated. Are you hoping to pull your diners from the golden enclave that is Padstow and Rock?

I didn’t exactly choose the site – I got wind that something was happening here after I moved to Bodmin, but when the opportunity arose, I met with the owner to see how it compared with what was already in the vicinity. That’s when we realised, because of its location, that we were plugging a hole in the culinary landscape, freeing us of the necessity to compete with the coastal restaurants. In fact, I have to say, the moment I walked in, I knew it was the perfect venue to create my food and build a great team.

I hope to make Nanstallon a new foodie destination that complements Cornwall’s incredible food scene – a stopping point for both tourists and locals, whether they’re heading down or coming back up the county. We’re not on the coast, so we’re not tied to hyper-seasonal trends, which gives us the freedom to develop the site and take it to where I truly believe it can go.

What’s the philosophy behind the building/design/architecture, especially of that glass-walled dining space?

I think the building has a distinctly Scandinavian feel – like a serene, holistic retreat in Cornwall! I love it. The full-height glass windows frame stunning summer views, and in winter, let you witness the elemental forces at work from a cosy space. The building’s philosophy and aesthetic perfectly mirror our relaxed, natural, and ever-evolving approach to the food and drink we want to serve. It’s the perfect building.

What do you see as the biggest operational challenges – especially in a rural Cornish setting with seasonal fluctuations?

I think all hospitality venues are facing challenges in these tough times, be it in Cornwall or up-country. But we have to keep positive. For sure, the seasonal changes will give us headaches, but we have plans to pivot and add offerings once we realise business requirements. I hope that with being new, we can navigate this winter and then look at the business again before next year.  

How are you approaching staffing and team culture? How do you plan to retain talent in this setting?

We are building a team who share our vision, and we are committed to ensuring they continue to do so as we evolve. Keeping everyone informed about developments and menu changes is key. Operating four days a week helps maintain a healthy balance for the team. Naturally, the business must remain viable, so staff retention is crucial; looking after our team gives us the best chance to create a sustainable and successful business model.

To what extent will local Cornish producers be featured, and how do you balance ambition with supply constraints?

Although I’m still getting to know all the suppliers in the area, I aim to use Cornish producers wherever possible. Building trust is key, so, like the site itself, this approach will evolve. At the moment, I’m working with a few trusted ones from outside the region as well as from the South West, but my goal is to gradually expand and incorporate more local producers as we grow.

Do you plan to experiment with guest chefs, special events, pop-ups, or shifts in menu format over time?

Yes! I have plans to introduce a different menu format on Sundays alongside our small plates offer; not a traditional roast, but something that offers both great value and interest. We have already discussed wine events for next year, and I hope to plan some guest-chef “four hands” dinners (special culinary events where two chefs collaborate to create a unique, limited-time menu, often blending their individual styles). 

We hope to persuade both local chefs and those from further afield to take part. But for now, our focus is on building our reputation with the team we have here.

Where do you see Fern in three to five years – what would success look like to you (in terms of reputation, community role, accolades)?

Wow, well, first and foremost, the industry as a whole needs more support to make business longevity realistic for everyone. For me, success would be a busy, popular restaurant with a loyal regular customer base for our owner, Steve, a local venue that appeals across all demographics. 

I hope for a consistent, committed team building a strong reputation and helping make Nanstallon another Cornish foodie destination, alongside others in the county. As for accolades, I’m not focused on chasing them; all I can say is that if we, as a team, create a consistent and well-loved restaurant, the future will take care of itself. I’ve been fortunate to achieve accolades before in London and Oxford, but I still hope we can share that success together here in Cornwall – let’s see. Above all, I hope Fern brings great success to everyone involved.

ferncornwall.co.uk