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DRIFT Epicure

From sparkling waters rich in seafood to green expanses of fertile land where fauna graze and flora flourish, the South West is home to a natural larder brimming with the promise of fine flavour. For those of us lucky enough to live in this rich culinary landscape, we know only too well how far a little knowledge and an appreciation for local produce can go, if only you know where to look.


Arrive hungry, leave happy
Words by Hannah Tapping A heady concoction of flavour and indulgence invokes all the senses. Jade Berry On an unseasonably warm weekend, Porthleven played host to its annual food festival, a three-day long celebration of food and producers. I arrive early evening and the festival is doing what food festivals do: there’s the smell of woodsmoke and frying in the air, the press of happy bodies enjoying cold drinks in the sunshine on the restaurant’s terraces, while a sound trac


Temperate sophistication
Words by Jamie Crocker Budock Vean Hotel & Spa is a four-star retreat set within a 65-acre countryside estate. Situated just above the Helford River in Cornwall, its facilities include a 9-hole/18-tee golf course designed by James Braid, indoor pool, sauna, outdoor hot tub, tennis courts, acres of subtropical gardens, and a private foreshore with water sports and boat trips. Accommodation ranges from hotel rooms to self-catering cottages and lodges, with easy access to the ga


Beyond expectation
Words by Jamie Crocker It may no longer answer to its original name, yet its capacity to adapt has never faltered. On Mill Street in this small Devon market town, the pub now known as the Chagford Inn has been pouring pints in one form or another for over 200 years, shifting identities from The Bakers Arms to the Buller’s Arms as the town itself evolved around it. Since taking it on in 2020, Ollie and Jordan have pulled its long history into the present, sharpening the food,


From boat to plate
Words by Jamie Crocker Fresh landings guide a kitchen that draws from Newlyn’s harbour catch. In Newlyn, the working harbour sets the terms and Mackerel Sky Seafood Bar keeps close to it. The kitchen follows the pattern of daily landings, building its menu around what comes ashore rather than sticking blindly to an intransigent list. The result is something that has provenance, supports the local economy and is shaped by the people who fish the waters of Mount’s Bay. Lobster


Pitch to pitcher
Words by Jamie Crocker Fore Street’s new oasis offers a refreshing blend of wine, food and non-conformist personality. A trio of Lebanese-inspired dips Mention Newport to most people in this land, and they’ll invariably stall, pretend to look thoughtful and then reply with, ‘It’s that town in Wales, isn’t it? On the south coast?’ or ‘It’s that service station on the M1 – Newport Pagnall.’ Even a search on Google Maps suggests the Isle of Wight. However, there are a few enligh


Finding the edge
Words by Hannah Tapping Where land meets sea, serious cuisine morphs with poetic resonance at the finest of tables. There are evenings that arrive as a gift, where the light does something extraordinary and the world seems to exhale. This was one of those rare evenings in April that delivered a sky of impossible blue and a sea whipped by the breeze revealing white horses chasing each other to the horizon. As we swept down the final lane towards Housel Bay, something in us shi


Entente cordiale
Words by Jamie Crocker Local supply, combined with French training, fuses in the heat of the kitchen. At The Barley Sheaf in Gorran Churchtown, Dan Hyams runs the kitchen and the day-to-day business in a way that adheres to first principles: buy local and cook it in a way that is rich, sophisticated and technique-driven. It stands to reason. His background is classical French, learned in Britain and sharpened by time working across France, something that has stayed with him a


Rooted in renewal
Words by Jamie Crocker Àclèaf is a MICHELIN-Starred and 4 AA Rosette restaurant in Devon. Situated within the five-star Boringdon Hall Hotel and Spa, near Plymouth in Devon, it is presided over by acclaimed Head Chef Scott Paton. It offers an unforgettable gastronomic journey built around seasonally inspired, locally sourced ingredients. Since first being awarded a MICHELIN Star in 2023, Àclèaf has retained its MICHELIN status each consecutive year, establishing itself as a c


Perfect comfort food
From Sunshine Café and Yoga comes this ever-popular grounding dal. For over five millennia, dal has simmered at the heart of the subcontinent’s story, its name drawn from the Sanskrit dal – to split – echoing the humble lentil at its core. From the ritual texts of the Vedic age to the prescriptions of Ayurveda, it was as much nourishment for the body as it was a marker of cultural continuity. Empires rose and fell, yet dal endured, evolving from everyday sustenance to courtl


A seat with a view
Words by Rosie Cattrell Perched at each end of one of Cornwall’s most vibrant foodie towns, The Greenbank and The Falmouth’s exceptional foodie offering is always paired with a view of the water. Cornwall is no stranger to exceptional cuisine, and it’s no secret that the county is home to a vast array of producers, chefs and venues that can only be described as remarkable. However, amongst the many foodie faces and places to celebrate in this small corner of the world, I find


On the harbourside
Words by Jamie Crocker A family-run deli and kitchen shaped by sourcing and community ties. Terri and Caleb In one of Cornwall’s most picturesque coastal destinations, Mousehole Deli and Kitchen is something special. Taken on by Caleb in 2012 and developed with his wife Terri, the business has grown from a straightforward deli into a two-floor operation that skilfully juggles retail, café and restaurant. The shift came in 2018, when the flat above was converted into a dining


Find the salt in your soul
Words by Hannah Tapping A boldly reimagined wellness proposition means the St Moritz hotel has never felt more alive. St Moritz Hotel on the north Cornish coast has always been one of the great escapes. This season, the introduction of Salt in Your Soul combines adventurous activities, mindful practices, a new active programme and a food offering rooted in place, to create the ultimate north-coast escape. It begins, as all great retreats do, with the sea. Drive between the he


On a journey
Words by Hannah Tapping | Images by Linda Hermans Nature-inspired cuisine with a focus on the landscapes, flora and fauna. South African-born, Chef Patron Hylton Espey, along with wife Petronella, run Culture, a farm-to-table restaurant on Custom House Quay in Falmouth, with a tasting menu that changes almost daily. Ingredients are central to Culture in a way that is rarely so detailed or intentional. Whether that be foraging for seaweed and wild garlic on nearby clifftops, m


Seasonal resonance
Words by Jamie Crocker The Quarterdeck at The Nare isn’t an adjunct to the hotel; it stands as a destination in its own right. Set above Carne Beach with Gerrans Bay stretching out beyond, The Quarterdeck occupies a position defined as much by its immediate shoreline setting as by its role within The Nare. The approach from the winding lane down from Veryan prepares the ground: hedgerows close in, the road swings east, and then the view opens suddenly to sea and sky. The rest


Roadside rendezvous
Words by Jamie Crocker A place for the discerning traveller to pause for real food and conscious retail. Front of Teals’ store Set just off the A303 near Sparkford (///span.bulk.expressed), with easy access in both directions, Teals has earned a reputation among those travelling between London and the South West as a stop that feels a world away from the frenetic, noisy roadside establishments we have come to expect. For those in-the-know from Cornwall and Devon (and London,


Blending worlds
Words by Jamie Crocker Melding two separate sources of ingredients, Reef & Beef serves up a balanced menu of flavour and freshness. Reef & Beef is a culinary experience built on the twin pillars of excellence and respect for the finest ingredients. Under the vision and leadership of Head Chef and Owner Vasile Efros, the restaurant has forged a path that has already made it a gastronomic landmark in Cornwall, celebrated for its perfect mix of premium dry-aged meats and fresh s


The heart of the matter
Words by Hannah Tapping Placing the finest luxury kitchen appliances at the centre of the homes that matter most. With a bold new chapter underway this year, Garton King Appliances Ltd’s commitment to exceptional service has never been stronger. There is a reason the kitchen has always been the heart of the home. It is where the day begins and where it winds down, where families gather and where the best conversations happen… usually over something wonderful on the stove. At


After eight
Words by Jamie Crocker A grand Cornish hotel proves tradition can still have plenty of piquancy. The Dining Galleries Restaurant resides within one of Cornwall’s more distinctive hotels, a place that has been part country house, part gathering point for decades. There is nothing minimal about its décor. Portraits watch from the walls while careful detailing hints at the county’s past. Upholstery favours richness rather than restraint, contributing to an atmosphere that sits s


Rooted in the land
Words by Hannah Tapping Tom Holloway grew up foraging on Dorset cliffs and cooking over French barbecues. Now, one of Britain’s most exciting young chefs is taking everything he has learned and foraging his own culinary path. There are chefs who fall into food by accident, and there are those for whom it was never really a choice. Tom Holloway is firmly in the second category. Growing up in Dorset, summers were spent at his grandparents’ house in France, with each day’s repas


At the water's edge
Words by Hannah Tapping Where the finest fish comes straight off the boat, the wine list is in expert hands and the harbour is always in view. Top: Jack, Kate and Joe | Above: Dining on the terrace | Images ©Bell & Barrell At Amélie in Porthleven, you’ll find Cornish hospitality at its most generous. There are restaurants that happen to have a view and then there are restaurants where the view is inseparable from everything else. Amélie, sitting right on the water’s edge in
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