Beyond expectation
- 5 hours ago
- 4 min read
Words by Jamie Crocker
It may no longer answer to its original name, yet its capacity to adapt has never faltered.
On Mill Street in this small Devon market town, the pub now known as the Chagford Inn has been pouring pints in one form or another for over 200 years, shifting identities from The Bakers Arms to the Buller’s Arms as the town itself evolved around it. Since taking it on in 2020, Ollie and Jordan have pulled its long history into the present, sharpening the food, softening the edges, and opening up the space into something brighter and more welcoming. We find out how it successfully balances Dartmoor heritage with modern expectations.
The Chagford Inn has quickly become one of Dartmoor’s most talked-about dining pubs. When you and Ollie took it on, what was the original idea of what it should be and how has that shifted in reality?
If I’m honest, we’ve already achieved everything we set out to do – and then some. What’s changed is that we still feel there’s so much more it can become. The pub has exceeded every expectation we had for it, and we simply want to keep refining it, pushing things forward and improving what we offer year on year.
Your role is front of house, but also deeply tied to shaping the guest experience. What do you think most people misunderstand about what “good hospitality”. actually means?
We have always believed that good hospitality isn’t about linen napkins, waistcoats and white gloves. It’s about leaving somewhere happy. We want every interaction with our guests to be positive, and the one thing that we can’t ever say enough is that the customer should feel heard. A solid, friendly greeting on arrival and a hearty wave and thanks when people leave is a must.
The menu is built around local sourcing and seasonal change. How difficult is it to maintain consistency for returning guests when the dishes are constantly evolving?
The one thing that will always stay consistent, despite the menu constantly evolving, is the level of thought and care that we put into everything we do. The quality is the underpinning draw for returning customers, no matter what the dishes on offer are.
Dartmoor is full of traditional pubs. What do you think The Chagford Inn is doing differently that makes it so successful (without giving the game away)?
We are proud to be amongst many other great pubs here on Dartmoor, but what I think really makes us stand out from the others is our genuine commitment to running the business as a force for good. Directly trading and participating within our local community, while having a holistic approach and understanding the impact our business has.
What’s been the most unexpected reaction from locals since you’ve elevated the food offer? Did you encounter any resistance early on?
I wouldn’t say resistance is the word, but maybe the words would be ‘dubious intrigue’. We have been here six years now, but we are still ‘blow-ins’ to some people. But we still feel so loved and valued in the town and hope that The Chagford Inn is an asset to our local economy.
There’s a growing perception that “gastropub” standards can sometimes alienate the very local pub crowd they’re meant to serve. Have you had to strike a compromise between accessibility and ambition?
It’s a balancing act, but we make sure that there is a well-executed pub classics menu on offer all the time, one that is still underpinned by the same commitment as the rest of our menus. Our bar is always open for quick drinks, and the relaxed, welcoming atmosphere is exactly what a local pub should provide.
Service-wise, what’s the hardest line to walk between relaxed rural hospitality and the expectations that come with an AA rosette and national recognition?
Our ethos is built around the relaxed service we provide and pride ourselves on; national recognition has come naturally without us ever moving away from what our vision was. I think too many places can get caught up in making changes to please the inspectors and judges, rather than pleasing the other 99% of people who come through the doors.
Ollie is in the kitchen whilst you’re front of house. How do you navigate disagreements when the food and the guest experience pull in slightly different directions?
I don’t want to sound too cheesy, but we are mostly on the same page when it comes to what we want the pub guest experience to be. There are always odd little things, but it’s always easy to come to a rational compromise.
The inn has a long history under different names and identities. Do you feel pressure to honour that legacy, or is reinvention the point?
Some people still refer to the pub by its old name, The Bullers Arms and that’s absolutely fine. I like to imagine there was a time when the locals still called it The Bakers Arms for longer than they should have after a previous name change. We are proud to be called The Chagford Inn; there are thousands of pubs all over the country that share names, but only one of us.
Even if the latest name is under 20 years old, we would like to cement it in Chagford’s history and make it a legacy in its own right.
With so many destination pubs now competing for attention in Devon, do you worry that rural dining is becoming more about reputation and awards than about serving the community that actually lives there?
Reputation is obviously hugely important for the discerning travelling diner, but serving the local community is just as much of a priority for us. Not only do we serve our local community directly, but we also actively bring people into the town that generates income for the wider local economy.
