A point of equilibrium

Words by Jamie Crocker

If you’re seeking a place that consistently delivers beyond expectation, then go no further. 

Turquoise blue water glitters for miles until it is ruled off by a hard, straight horizon, supporting ships waiting to enter Falmouth harbour. Gyllyngvase Beach, running round like a pale-yellow bow, sits beneath the point where I am standing on Cliff Road. Turning, I walk west, glancing up at The Liner to my right – a glass-fronted, balconied set of apartments offering its residents ever-shifting views of the sea and the ebb and flow of human traffic below, both parties seemingly hooked by the pull of sea and sky. And as the side of this modern structure turns in another direction with a tight yet subtle curve, a first glimpse is offered for the reason I’m here – St Michaels Resort. Sitting back, couched in sub-tropical flora leading up to its entrance, it is a state-of-the-art luxury spa hotel whose unpretentious exterior offers little indication of the warren of interior spaces dedicated to wellness and fine dining. 

Conceived as a twenty-first-century retreat, it is where contemporary aspirations are made manifest. Boasting 96 modern, light-filled rooms, each thoughtfully designed, much is made of its Cornish setting, from the deep, sumptuous beds draped in crisp white linen to the invigorating power showers. Every detail is tailored to provide the ultimate in comfort and relaxation. For those seeking something extra special, four luxury spa garden lodges are available, each a peaceful hideaway adorned in soft, coastal-inspired hues, perfect for unwinding in style. Family rooms and accessible options ensure that all guests are catered for, making this a place where everyone can find their own pace and repose.

In keeping with its raison d’être, St Michaels’ Health Club, Cornwall’s largest and most fully equipped fitness sanctuary, is at the heart of the experience. Whether you’re a guest or a member, the Health Club is your gateway to wellbeing, with a 17-metre pool, state-of-the-art gym, and a range of invigorating classes designed to suit all fitness levels. With a focus on nurturing rather than competing, you can achieve your personal wellness goals. It’s a space where the hustle and bustle of everyday life fades away like an outgoing tide. 

So, it was with a sense of anticipation that I let my previously clouded judgement of seaside spa hotels take a back seat. Entering the spacious reception area, I was greeted by a discreet mix of tawny and smoke grey sofas neatly arranged in such a way as to suggest a modern living room or luxury yacht. Porthole windowed doors added to the nautical feel, while the whole space was bathed in a soft, warm light, enhanced by a gently glowing fire to one side. Lines were clean without being sharp, with a gentle aroma of something slightly exotic spicing the air. Two members of the reception staff were on hand, which to me seemed to be the normal set-up. As first impressions count, St Michaels has made sure that as an introduction to the whole establishment, it’s the right one.

With the usual introductory formalities put to bed, my tour of the many-layered buildings that make up the resort began. Just off from the reception area is a breakout space with a bar and private balcony with views down to the subtropical gardens, ideal for weddings or private parties. Whilst further into the hotel, a short corridor leads into a bar and lounge area, perfect for pre- and post-  dinner drinks. This, in turn, segues into Brasserie on the Bay. Offering a relaxed, ocean-front dining experience that showcases the best of Cornwall’s seasonal produce, this coastal eatery celebrates the region’s rich natural larder, with a particular emphasis on sustainably sourced seafood, freshly landed on the shores of Cornwall. The sea is a constant companion here, its thread running through every aspect of the offering, inspiring every carefully crafted dish.

Under the direction of Cornwall-born Dave Waters and a dedicated kitchen brigade, the restaurant works closely with local fishermen, farmers and growers to create honest, flavourful dishes that allow exceptional ingredients to really flood the palate. Each plate is served just moments from where the produce has been grown, reared, or caught, bringing the very essence of Cornwall to the table. Dishes include venison carpaccio, Newlyn hake and braised hispi cabbage. 

Traversing the building, I noticed how one area seemed to flow into the next. The layout, although probably not unique, has a feeling of connectivity that is sometimes lacking in many hotels, which suffer from having their internal spaces dictated by architecture from a previous era. So, as I passed through, everything seemed to just emerge and evolve quite naturally. 

Before I knew it, I was at Nourish. The perfect gathering spot to eat, drink and take in the sea views. The menu, a celebration of local, seasonal ingredients, offers everything from pizzas and salads to small plates, all crafted to sustain body and soul.

Whether it’s a morning double espresso to start the day, a light bite before indulging in a spa retreat, or a wholesome burger after a long beachside stroll, Nourish provides the ideal setting. With its sea view backdrop, the venue invites guests to enjoy food that not only delights the senses but also promotes well-being, leaving guests feeling good both inside and out.

Sitting below is a secluded spa garden, replete with sauna and cold plunge, which comes into its own in the summer months, holding the sun until late, where guests can gather around the fire pit to slowly let go of another day by the sea. Heading back inside the main building, at what feels like ground level, are the treatment rooms along with the hydrothermal experience area consisting of a sauna, indoor pool, and ‘Amazonian rainfalls’. It constitutes part of the wellness experience at St Michaels, and what I witnessed here was an unhurried and yet focused pursuit of experiences that are designed to help reset both mind and body. People in the hydrothermal pool were certainly embracing the moment.

Returning to the level above, I was, surprisingly, back where I’d begun my journey. I was having a Tardis moment. Here was another breakout room, a snug area with a fire and AV facilities, that can serve as a workspace for those who can’t resist the temptation to keep working on laptops or who feel the need to host a small conference. It felt cosy and welcoming, touched only lightly by the pared-back, grungy urban chicness you might expect from somewhere like Soho House. Intimate and inviting is, perhaps, the truest way to describe it. 

Further on is the Wine Vault, which is another conference space, but on the day of my visit was occupied. I was assured, though, that it offers an exclusive setting perfect for board meetings, private dining and team away days. A self-contained room inspired by the elegance of a traditional wine vault, it is equipped with state-of-the-art audio-visual facilities, making it an ideal choice for presentations or executive retreats. Tucked away from the main hotel, it provides a discreet and refined environment for those seeking privacy and sophistication.

Emerging from the main building, I got to see the back of the Liner, which, on closer questioning, turns out to be the self-catering side to St Michaels. One-, two-, three- and four-bedroom apartments are housed here, all with sea-view balconies overlooking the aforementioned beach. A short walk across a paved drive that leads up to the hotel’s car park and I’m entering another building, one that houses the indoor pool, another sauna, a steam room, as well as a wellness room. As a guest staying at the hotel, you get full use of these facilities. A gym and spin studio room complete the ensemble. These are multi-generational spaces, as opposed to temples dedicated to the building of muscle. 

My visit to St Michaels ends here. As I walk back down to Cliff Road, I let my mind contemplate what I’ve seen and how that marries up with what I’ve been told and read, letting my thoughts dissolve any previous misconceptions I may have had. Borne out by closer inspection, I would say that I was more than suitably impressed. It is a place that doesn’t flaunt its presence, understatedly providing more than it admits to on every level – literally.

stmichaelsresort.com