From the terroir

Words by Hannah Tapping

Wine, like knowledge, is meant to be shared; unlocking the mysteries bottle by bottle.

On St Clement Street in Truro, there’s a place where wine is more than just a bottle on a shelf. Step inside Old Chapel Cellars and you’re met not with rows of intimidating labels or hushed conversation, but with a warm welcome, the kind that feels like walking into an old friend’s kitchen. This independent wine merchant has built its reputation on people, provenance and passion, shunning the prestige and pretence that often surrounds sommeliers and viticulture.

“We’re a small, independent wine merchant based right here in Truro,” says Jamie Tonkin, Founder and Co-Owner, and winner of Independent Merchant Wine Buyer of the Year at the London Wine Fair this year. “We specialise in high-quality wines, exceptional value and outstanding customer service. Our mission is to offer the community a friendly, approachable wine shop, whether you’re picking up a midweek bottle, choosing a gift, hosting at the weekend, or planning something special.”

That sense of community runs through everything Old Chapel Cellars does. The business began with a simple goal; to make great wine accessible to everyone, without the intimidation that can sometimes come with it. In an age of choice and information overload, Jamie and his team have created something refreshing; a place where curiosity is encouraged, and questions are welcomed. 

Dealing direct with small, independent vineyards wherever possible, every bottle has a story to tell and this is what makes their collection unique “We’re lucky to have built incredible, long-standing relationships with the producers we work with,” Jamie explains. “One of the best (and toughest!) parts of our job is visiting them in person, tasting new vintages and ensuring quality at the source.”

These aren’t anonymous suppliers hidden behind distribution chains, they’re families, artisans and growers whose vines are tended by hand and whose labels tell generational stories. “One example is Château Haut Pougnan, a small, family-run vineyard in Bordeaux,” explains Jamie. “Some of the team recently returned from visiting Jean Bernard at Haut Pougnan and I’m told the new vintage is fantastic. The château only produces one red and one white wine and every invoice still arrives handwritten from France. That’s personal for you!”

That word, personal, seems to capture the very essence of Old Chapel Cellars. The whole team strives for connection between people and places, between grape and glass, between tradition and sustainability. For them, wine shouldn’t be an exclusive club. “We’re passionate about making wine accessible to everyone,” says Jamie. “We stock a wide range of styles and prices starting from just £9 a bottle, so there’s something for every taste and every budget. We’re a friendly team and open to any conversation about wine and helping the customer find just the bottle they want.”

That down-to-earth attitude is exactly what draws customers back. There’s no jargon, no pressure, just genuine enthusiasm. If you arrive with little or no wine knowledge, that’s absolutely fine. In fact, that is one of their favourite types of customer and exactly what they’re here for. You can expect to start by chatting about what you usually enjoy and then the team will suggest wines that match your preferences. The goal is to help everyone discover something new they’ll love, in a relaxed, no-pressure way.

Step inside on a Saturday afternoon and you’ll see it for yourself: the casual flow of conversation, the easy laughter between staff and regulars, the faint clink of bottles being lifted from the shelf. Wine, here, is an experience, shared one story and one pour at a time.

For those who want to explore further, the shop’s tasting events offer an open door into the world of wine. “Each event includes six different wines, a welcome drink, and plenty of nibbles,” says Jamie. “They’re always relaxed, friendly and informative, so ideal for anyone who enjoys wine, from total beginners to seasoned enthusiasts.”

There’s something wonderfully communal about these evenings: friends gathered around tables, glasses in hand, conversation flowing as freely as the wine. They also host private and corporate tastings, tailored to the group’s tastes and interests. So, whether you’re celebrating a birthday or deepening your palate, these tastings make the world of wine approachable and start an exploration guided by passion rather than pretension. While Old Chapel Cellars might be rooted in tradition; it’s about innovation too. One of their most forward-thinking areas is their range of keg and canned wines; an idea that may surprise traditionalists but makes perfect sense in a changing world.

“We’re big advocates for alternative wine formats due to their lower impact on the environment,” explains Jamie. “That’s why we’ve dedicated part of our shop to them. We work with brilliant producers like The Copper Crew and The Uncommon, who specialise exclusively in high-quality wine in cans and kegs.”

These formats offer both sustainable  and practical benefits. They’re portable, perfectly portioned and ideal for life on the move, whether that’s at the beach, a festival or on the train. For a Cornish summer spent between sea and sand, it’s a match made in heaven.

For all its warmth and friendliness, Old Chapel Cellars is also leading the way in responsible business. “Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do,” Jamie tells me. “As the first B Corp certified wine merchant in the UK, we’re committed to running our business responsibly, for both people and planet,” and for them, certification isn’t just a badge, it’s a daily practice. Every online order is packed in fully recyclable materials, local deliveries are made using recycled wine boxes and the business tracks its miles, waste and carbon footprint every month. “We’re always looking for ways to reduce our impact wherever possible,” Jamie notes. “We believe in balancing purpose with profit. It’s about being a force for good in the world, not just a successful business.

In many ways, their approach mirrors the small producers they champion; businesses built on care, craftsmanship and continuity rather than excess or speed. It’s this alignment of values, from vineyard to counter, that sets Old Chapel Cellars apart.

Beyond the shopfront, Old Chapel Cellars is a key player in Cornwall’s thriving food scene. Their wholesale arm supplies many of the county’s most respected restaurants and hotels which is a mark of both trust and taste. “We’re incredibly proud of our wholesale side,” shares Co-Owner Louisa Fitzpatrick. “We were recently ranked 9th in the Harpers Top 50 UK Drinks Wholesalers, which was a huge honour.” The team works closely with chefs, sommeliers and hospitality venues, offering next-day delivery, staff training and ongoing support.

Their list of clients reads like a who’s who of Cornish dining: The Headland Hotel, St Michaels Hotel, Nancarrow Farm, Driftwood Spars and Paul Ainsworth’s No.6, among others. “They’re all venues that share our passion for great food, great wine and genuine hospitality,” says Louisa. “It’s wonderful to collaborate with people who care about the same things we do.”

At its heart, Old Chapel Cellars is a business built on relationships with growers, customers and the community it serves. It’s this blend of passion and purpose that has turned a modest Truro wine shop into one of Cornwall’s most admired small enterprises. There’s an authenticity here that’s increasingly rare. Perhaps it’s the way every bottle tells a human story; or the easy warmth of the staff who treat every visitor as a friend. Perhaps it’s the understanding that wine, in the end, is about a connection between soil and sun, maker and drinker, one conversation and the next. Whatever it is, Old Chapel Cellars has found that sweet spot where tradition meets innovation and good taste meets good conscience, one pour at a time.

oldchapelcellars.co.uk