The art of slowing down
- Rosie Cattrell
- Dec 9
- 5 min read
Words by Rosie Cattrell
As the evenings draw in and the lights dim, three historic hotels reveal a combination of heritage and hospitality.
When the clocks turn back, Cornwall exhales to reveal a secret season known best by those who stay to watch the light change. Sea mists roll over headlands, villages are lit by lamplight and the tides continue their eternal sway, marking time in the spaces between winter and spring. It’s in these months that the Duchy’s true spirit is felt. For centuries, travellers have been drawn to Cornwall’s shores. The expanse of coastline, the sweep of countryside edged with moorland and its fishing towns have long been a tonic for those seeking reprieve from life elsewhere. To stand at the edge of the land is to feel both wonderfully small and entirely free, a sensation that has inspired generations of artists, writers and wanderers to capture its essence.
For those visiting at this time of year, the Cornwall Hotel Collection offers a trio of historic Cornish landmarks that each hold their own distinct identity. Across coast and city, from harbourside to oceanfront, their walls tell tales of eras past, of evolving tastes and enduring charm. Under the guidance of Managing Director Ben Young, the Collection continues to honour this legacy while shaping it for the modern traveller. “Each of our hotels carries a different identity,” he reflects. “We take great pride in preserving their histories while ensuring guests experience Cornwall in a way that feels both authentic and extraordinary.”
Hidden in the heart of Truro lies The Alverton, an elegant retreat built in 1830 as a family home for the Tweedys, its stately stone façade and sweeping lawns still evoking an air of Victorian grace. The Alverton’s story, however, runs far deeper than its architectural grandeur. In 1883, a group of nuns – the Order of the Epiphany – transformed the residence into a convent, building the now-iconic Great Hall, whose soaring arches and stained glass still echo with reverence. Designed by the same architects responsible for Truro Cathedral, it’s a space that carries its own kind of sacred stillness.
Step through the heavy oak doors today and the atmosphere remains one of calm and contemplation. The Great Hall now hosts celebrations rather than sermons, yet its sense of wonder endures. Beyond, ivy-clad walls and fairytale gardens lend The Alverton an air of seclusion rarely found in a city. The enchanting architecture invites exploration and the luxurious suites – with roll-top baths and high ceilings – combine the charm of old stone with the ease of modern comfort, accompanied by the lull of birdsong just beyond the windows. In winter, when frost gathers on the lawns and the cathedral bells toll faintly in the distance, the hotel feels almost otherworldly.
The restaurant too, is a study in excellence. Local flavours take centre stage, presented with an elegance that feels at once refined and deeply rooted. Afternoon tea, served beneath the gentle light of The Great Hall’s windows, is a ceremony of its own. The Alverton’s allure lies in its balance; historic yet fresh, grand yet welcoming. It’s a city escape with a country heart.
Follow the winding roads west and you’ll find The Greenbank in Falmouth, on the edge of the River Fal. Its story stretches back to 1640, making it one of the oldest hotels in the region, a cornerstone of Cornish hospitality that has long served as both haven and inspiration. In the summer of 1907, author Kenneth Grahame looked out from his room across the glimmering water and began to pen letters to his young son, musings that would later form the beloved Wind in the Willows.
It’s easy to understand why such musings took shape here. The Greenbank seems to hover between land and water, its windows framing the constant dance of tide and light. The gentle clink of rigging in the marina below, the scent of salt carried on the breeze form the backdrop to a place that feels both timeless and alive. Inside, Head Chef Bobby Southworth leads the team at the Water’s Edge restaurant, where each plate tells a story of place and season. The menus shift with the weather, celebrating Cornwall’s farmers, fishermen and foragers. Winter brings slow-cooked flavours, root vegetables, and comforting richness; summer offers delicate seafood and bright garden herbs.
From the panoramic windows of the restaurant, dawn spills gold across the water as breakfast is served, the view unchanged since Grahame’s day, yet eternally captivating. Later, as the afternoon light softens guests linger over cream teas and glasses of wine, the harbour alive with movement. Each of The Greenbank’s rooms carries this connection to the water – sea-inspired hues, gentle textures and the hush of the river lapping below. The Florence and Lookout Suites, with their roll-top baths and floor-to-ceiling windows, offer that rare combination of grandeur and serenity… the sort of luxury that Cornwall does best.
And then there is The Falmouth, one of Cornwall’s most recognisable coastal landmarks. Standing proudly on the seafront since 1865, its grand Victorian architecture and manicured grounds speak to a bygone era of seaside leisure. Built at the height of the Great Western Railway’s expansion into Cornwall, it became the very embodiment of the Victorian dream; escape to the sea, breathe the salt air, and let the stresses of city life fall away. Now, under the stewardship of the Cornwall Hotel Collection, The Falmouth is poised for a new chapter. “We’re honoured to bring The Falmouth into our family,” Ben continues. “It’s a building steeped in memory, and we see it as both a privilege and a responsibility to ensure its legacy continues for generations to come.”
Within its striking façade, intricate details nod to the hotel’s illustrious history as high ceilings and sweeping staircases offer a faint echo of footsteps from another time. Yet the atmosphere remains distinctly welcoming. With 71 rooms, many gazing straight out to sea, The Falmouth offers an unbroken view of Cornwall’s dramatic coastline. Pendennis Castle stands watch from the headland, and Castle Beach, just steps away, hums with life even in the chill of winter. When the storms roll in, waves lash the shore and the air is filled with the scent of salt and seaweed; an exciting contrast to the endless shades of turquoise that seem to stretch out across the horizon in the summer.
The hotel’s Castle View restaurant is the heart of this reborn landmark. Overseen by Head Chef Tim Pile, it brings together the best seasonal flavours in an atmosphere that feels both refined and relaxed. Guests linger over stone-baked pizzas, freshly caught seafood, Sunday lunches worthy of tradition and afternoon tea, enjoyed as sailboats drift lazily by. For those seeking rest after a windswept walk along the coast, the indoor pool, hot tub, sauna and spa provide a sanctuary of warmth and calm. The blend of old-world charm and modern comfort captures something essentially Cornish.
Across the Collection, this balance defines the experience. Each hotel is a story in itself, yet together they form a narrative of Cornwall through the ages: a maritime legacy, an artistic spirit and connection to the landscape. In summer, these places hum with energy – boats on the river, weddings in the gardens, laughter spilling onto sunlit terraces. In winter, their beauty is no less radiant, simply a little gentler around the edges.
For those who seek to know Cornwall beyond its postcard summer image, this is the time to visit. The air is clear, the sea wild and silvered, while, within the hotels, warmth overflows and candlelit conversations stretch long into the evening over good food and local wine. It’s easy to see why Cornwall’s so-called ‘secret season’ is no longer much of a secret at all.
